AGTA GemFair 2018

An Overview of Pearl-Testing Methods

Speakers: Elisabeth Strack, Gemmologisches Institut Hamburg

"Pearl testing involves three main tasks: recognizing imitation pearls, cultured pearls and natural pearls. distinguishing saltwater and freshwater origin and beaded from non-beaded cultured pearls.

While standard methods like a microscope or an ultraviolet lamp still play a role, more advanced instrumentation has become a prerequisite. X-radiography, first used in 1929, has meanwhile developed into high-intensity digital microfocus radiography and X-ray computerized tomography that delivers three-dimensional pictures.

EDXRF (Energy Dispersive X-Ray Fluorescence) is a spectrometric method that allows to distinguish saltwater and freshwater origin by determining the presence of manganese."

 

Anti-Money Laundering (AML) and The PATRIOT Act: Compliance Refresher for the Colored Stone Industry

Speakers: Sara Yood, Senior Counsel, Jewelers Vigilance Committee

Banks are increasing their pressure on merchants to demonstrate their compliance with the USA PATRIOT Act. The Government is now enforcing against companies simply for the failure to comply. Are you up-to-date with your required actions under the law? This seminar will review all of the elements of a compliant AML program in order to meet expectations from banks, the government, and your business partners. We will focus on issues paramount to those in the colored gemstone sector, and address how having a compliant AML program reduces risk. Come ask JVC's AML expert all of your questions!

 

Black Gem Challenges

Speakers: Cigdem Lule, PhD, FGA., GG (GIA), DGA, Consultant, GemWorld International

Identification of black gems pose a challenge for the gemologist and the buyer as they are sold with little or no disclosure of their nature. Recently, black diamonds are increasingly seen in high end jewelry. This lead to other black gems to be used as an alternative in many forms. There is no doubt that artificially produced black materials such as black paste and ceramic dominate the mass market. Dr. Lule will talk about the most common black gem materials encountered in jewelry production and discuss practical techniques of recognizing them.

 

Corals, From Precious to Commercial

Speakers: Eric Fritz, FGA DGA, Gem-A

Coral has been fashioned and used for ornamentation for over 5000 years. This hands on session will look at several different varieties of precious or gem corals as well as the dyed types seen in abundance at many Gem Shows. The history and modern day industry of Italian red coral which is still thriving today will be discussed. Separating Black Coral from sea fans and the treatment into "Golden" coral will be examined and participants will know how to easily tell them all apart. Examples of dyed Bamboo and Sponge Coral will also be available. A brief discussion of ethical and environmental pressures will round out the discussion.

 

Custom or Customize: What Does Your Customer Really Want?

Speakers: Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts

"Seems that the whole industry is talking about 'custom' these days - but what are we really looking at? No doubt - a special piece of fine jewelry - particularly bridal jewelry - represents a highly individual expression. One of the most important factors influencing purchasing decisions for today's fine jewelry buyers is the ability to customize. Is there a difference though between 'customize' and 'custom'? Does the drive toward personalization mean that you need to invest tens of thousands of dollars in software, equipment and payroll hours building a 'custom shop' just to meet consumer demand?

In this presentation, you'll learn how to ask the right questions to help determine your customers' real interest, while you assess your business model and consider strategies for capturing a bigger share of the 'customized' market."

 

Evaluation and Pricing of Jadeite & Nephrite Jade - Part A: Jade Bangles

Speakers: Jeff Mason, GG, Mason-Kay, Inc. Renée Newman GG, Author: Exotic Gems, Vol 4: How to Identify, Evaluate & Select Jade & Abalone Pearls

Part 3 in a series of a continuing discussion on jade by Jeff Mason and Renée Newman: "Evaluation and Pricing of Jadeite & Nephrite Jade".

 

Exploring Rare and Exotic Natural Pearls

Speakers: Gina Latendresse, American Pearl Company, Inc.

Where are natural pearls found? Some grow in marine gastropods. Discover a variety of natural pearls from around the world and the exotic species of mollusks from which they originate.

 

Gem Labs and Origin Determination: Past, Present, & Future

Speakers: Edward Boehm, GG, Raresource, Chattanooga, TN

"Gem labs, gemological equipment, and testing techniques have evolved greatly over the past century. In the early days of origin study there were far fewer sources and treatments to consider so the gem testing equipment and techniques were less advanced but required expertise that only a few gemologists had mastered. New sources and treatments have put continuous pressure on laboratories. In response, subsequent generations of gemologists and research scientists have been forced to develop more advanced equipment and testing techniques to meet the constantly changing challenges.

Edward Boehm is a colored stone dealer and consultant from Chattanooga, Tennessee. He began his gemological studies in Switzerland where he spent the summers of his youth under the tutelage of his Grandfather, Edward Gübelin, piquing his curiosity in crystals and gems. Upon graduating in Geology & German from UNC, Chapel Hill, he went on to obtain the Graduate Gemologist diploma from the GIA in 1988, followed by the Certified Gemologist title from the AGS in 1996. He also completed the SSEF advanced laboratory gemology course under the tutelage of Prof. Henry Hänni in 1998. He was recently awarded an honorary FGA from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain."

 

Gemstone Quantification

Speakers: Sheahan Stephen, Sheahan Stephen Sapphires

This session will cover the methodology Sheahan Stephen uses to quantify gemstones. The constantly changing economic, political, cultural, religious, and environmental factors that keep the gem world fluid. Those along with the technical factors (treatment, origin, color, hue, saturation, clarity, shape, and cutting style) in hand with the supply and demand all play a role in the constantly changing gemstone prices. All these factors are taken into account and brought together to a delta which is the price.

 

Making the Social Sale

Speakers: Bernadette Mack, Executive Director, Women's Jewelry Association & panel

"Back by popular demand! Are you wondering how to connect with the modern gemstone consumer on digital or social media? Confused about how to tell the story of gemstone origin to your customers? Bring your questions to the lively, thought-provoking panel of digital media and colored gemstone stars and participate in a discussion that explores how gems present an important opportunity to set your business apart.

Back by popular demand, this panel will go to the next level on how--and why - to connect with the modern gemstone consumer on digital and social media, the increasing importance of gemstone origin to consumers, and how gemstones present an important opportunity to set your business apart as a designer or retailer.

Panelists: Thought leaders and pioneers from a cross section of the jewelry/gemstone industry."

 

Natural vs. Enhanced Lapidary Materials

Speakers: Helen Serras-Herman, FGA

"There is an endless inventory of lapidary gem materials on the market today created or enhanced to look like some other natural material, usually one that is rare and expensive. Most are natural materials that have been dyed or compressed to simulate a better quality material, or another natural material, while others are partly natural stone and partly other materials, such as resins, metals, etc. All these simulants provide an inexpensive alternative to natural gems, and many of them are beautiful, with bold patterns, and durable to be used into jewelry. The only problem surrounding these stones is the lack of disclosure, as the cabochon and bead market almost slides quietly under the disclosure radar.

Helen Serras-Herman, gem artist and FGA gemologist, will discuss various natural vs. enhanced lapidary materials; among them the popular Sonora chrysocolla, natural turquoise vs. compressed blocks, sugilite vs. Mohave purple turquoise, drusy gems, azurite with malachite, lapis, and rainbow calsilica."

 

News From The Gübelin Gem Lab

Speakers: Dr. Lore Kiefert, Chief Gemmologist, Gübelin Labs

A tour d'horizon on the latest developments witnessed by the Gübelin Gem Lab.

 

Practical Gemmology

Speakers: Alan Hodgkinson, FGA, Earth and Environmental Sciences

"The AGTA community is once again (for the 26th year), delighted to have Scotsman, Alan Hodgkinson share his observations and findings with those who are fascinated by gemstones and gemology. Mr. Hodgkinson is a seminar favorite who will inspire new students of gemmology and even enlighten the seasoned gemmologist. His book, Gem Testing Techniques, is now almost sold out, due to its straightforward practical applications of gem testing which the readers can undertake for themselves, many of them involving little or no expense.

There is a false idea circulating that the Scots are a mean race. However Alan will demonstrate just how mean a gemologist can be."

 

Sourcing & Appraising American Gemstones

Speakers: Martin Fuller, GG, Martin Fuller and Associates

"There has been a resurgence of interest in the bounty and beauty of American gemstones. From Maine to California, tourmaline, emeralds, sapphire, garnets, sunstone and more, the U.S. jewelry industry is enjoying a love affair with the native colored stone bounty. Championed by precision and fantasy cutters, American gemstones are being sought by consumers and collectors in search something beautiful that's outside the box and inside the borders. At every level of the industry, from the mine to the mounting, American gemstones are being celebrated for their home grown beauty and ""novelty"". It's a sense of national pride that you can sport with a smile, and the assurance of knowing its been ethically mined and managed.

In this short hour, we will learn about sourcing the material effectively and valuing it properly."

 

The Cultured Pearl Association of America's PEARLS as ONE — The Definitive Course on Pearls.

Speakers: CPAA, Cultured Pearl Association of America

Do you often think: How can I improve pearl sales? My sales team needs training or I need to learn more about pearls. Written, vetted and edited by the preeminent pearl specialists from around the globe, this is the most comprehensive pearl course to date.

 

Tucson Market Trends Show Buying Tips

Speakers: Richard Drucker, GG, GemWorld International, Stuart M. Robertson, GG (GIA), Vice President, Gemworld International

Market trends, industry issues, and the gems you'll see in Tucson. Researcher, author, and colored gemstone expert Richard Drucker offers compelling insights and sometimes uncomfortable truths as he shares what to expect regarding quantities, qualities, and pricing in 2018 and going forward.

 

Valuations of the Unusual and Current Problematic Issues

Speakers: Cos Altobelli, Altobelli Jewelers and Appraisals

Seminar includes: Clarity grading damaged diamonds and eye-visible inclusions; Valuing carvings, mineral specimens, ivory, old mine and old European cut diamonds, flatware and hollowware and unusual items: Software programs, describing colored gemstones and current problematic issues.

 

Winning in Today's Market and Beyond: 'Generation Z' and an UNSTOPPABLE Trend Culture

Speakers: Kate Peterson, Performance Concepts, for Diamond Council of America

"WINNING business owners anticipate their customers' passions and motivations, knowing that everything they understand today will evolve to a whole new view tomorrow. Millennials, the much-studied generation whose behavior has seduced and puzzled luxury brands in equal measure, are no longer the sole focus for companies hoping to attract new customers: Generation Z, the label given to those born since 1995, is the latest target audience, thanks to their future purchasing power and the influence they hold over the spending of their parents and grandparents.

Luxury businesses win when they identify where consumer expectations are heading next -- and innovate to meet those emerging expectations -- consistently.

In this session, you'll discover actionable ways that YOU can help build that culture in your business, while focusing the right level of attention on Gen Z and the trends that will drive your business forward . Help turn your organization into an unstoppable machine for trend-driven innovation, with all the content and tools you need to inspire, validate & launch your next game-changing brand strategy."